2010 Domenico Clerico Percristina - 巴罗洛 DOCG - 1 Bottle (0.75L)

Domenico Clerico is a small, high-quality producer near Monforte d'Alba in Piemonte. It is particularly known for rich, aromatic, single-vineyard wines from the Barolo appellation.

The Barolo lineup is headed by Percristina, from a 1.7-hectare (4.2-acre) plot in the Mosconi cru, which is aged for 36 months in French barriques, then 24 months in Slavonian oak vats. As well-known (and a little easier to find) is the Ciabot Mentin, from a 5.5-ha (13.6-acre) portion of the Ginestra cru, which receives 24 to 30 months in French barriques. A separate 3-ha (7.5-acre) Ginestra plot provides the grapes for the Barolo Pajana.

Aeroplanservaj (Wild Aeroplane) is named after the nickname Domenico's father gave him, and is sourced from a rented plot in Serralunga d'Alba. The Bricotto cuvée is rarest of all, sourced from just 0.3ha (0.7 acres) in the Bussia vineyard, and produces a mere 750 magnums annually.

The generic Barolo is sourced from a specific 4.1ha (10.1 acres) of vines in cru vineyards, and is aged for 18 to 24 months in a mix of new and old barriques and large Slavonian casks. Capisme-e is labelled as Langhe Nebbiolo, but produced from fruit from Barolo vineyards, aged in steel tanks.

Nebbiolo also dominates in the Arte Langhe Rosso which combines fruit from three of the cru plots with 10 percent Barbera, The range is completed by a Barbera d'Alba and a Langhe Dolcetto.

Winemaking has evolved over the years and Domenico Clerico does not sit firmly within either the modernist or traditional camp. Decisions regarding use of barriques or large barriques have historically been taken at least partly with a pragmatic view concerning availability and ease of handling, and the big change has been to extend maceration periods from five to eight days to an average of 18.

Approaches in the vineyard are perhaps more dogmatic. Vine quality is considered paramount and yields are amongst the lowest in the region.

The estate in its current form began in 1976, when Domenico took over his father's 5-ha (12-acre) smallholding, which had supplied the local cooperative. Over the years he has added small parcels from some of the best sites in Barolo and now holdings totals around 21ha (52 acres).

Vintage quality: Legendary
Current condition: Ready to drink, will keep

For Piedmont, the 2010 vintage was fantastic.

The growing season for Piedmont was cooler than normal. A chilly spring saw intermittent patches of rain and sun and rain delayed and disrupted the flowering in May reducing yields. Various vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba, La Morra, Barbaresco and in Massolino were hit by severe bouts of frost. June saw more rain with conditions only starting to both dry up in July, which also welcomed warmer temperatures. After a hot, dry July, August blew cold and foggy, but the chilly nights were ideal for Nebbiolo. September was dry, sunny but October did see some heavy rain over harvest time which proved disruptive for some vines less fortunately sited.

However, despite some troubles with the rain, the harvest was generally a success in both Barolo and Barbaresco. Both Nebbiolo and Dolcetto were particularly successful and some exceptionally fine wines were made. The Barolos and Barbarescos were hugely successful with smooth tannins, clear, precise fruit and a perfect balance between acidity and alcohol. In general, these wines championed restrained power, elegance and grace over blockbuster fruit.

Many examples will drink beautifully now with the best examples likely to cellar for many more decades.